Kerala is the last of the four Indian regions we explored during this trip. It is also the best known internationally among them, and it is not difficult to understand why. The region truly has it all; lush hills covered in a brilliant green carpet of tea plantations, salty ocean waves crashing onto long sandy beaches, vast gardens where the local people cultivate and cherish Ayurvedic recipes based on countless spices and medicinal plants, bustling port cities whose architecture has been influenced by centuries of trade with foreign cultures, and a rich and unique culture reflected in its delicious cuisine, in the ancient martial arts of Kalaripayattu and the arts of dance and theater (Kathakali).
Fort Kochi, a neighborhood of Kochi city, beautifully reflects the influence of Arab, Chinese and European cultures which shaped and merged into the city’s personality since its port opening in 1341. Big piles of opened coconuts sit at the side of local vendors’ carts, contemporary art galleries and European-style cafés are housed in colourful heritage and colonial buildings, giant, centuries-old rain trees reach heights of 25 metres and have canopies up to 30 metres wide overlooking parks and streets of the city centre.
The Chinese Fishing Nets (Cheena Vala) stand majestically in the waters off Fort Kochi Beach, on the north-eastern tip of the peninsula, and are perhaps Kochi’s most impressive attraction. These 10-meter-high structures are cantilever lift nets made of teak wood or bamboo that require five to six people to operate. They are a legacy of Chinese merchants of the 1400s AD and are still used today by local fishermen, who then sell their fresh catch along the same beach.
In Kochi, as well as in other cities and towns of Kerala, you will have the chance to attend the unique theater performance of Kathakali, a 400-year old traditional dance drama of this Indian region. It involves brilliant colourful and elaborate makeup, impressive stage costumes and interestingly expressive storytelling. The face painting process is part of the overall performance and the colour choice is highly symbolic: green represents nobility while white, red or black signifies evil characters. You can get to the cultural centre early and attend the long and intricate makeup preparation that precedes the theater act. The latter unfolds without dialogue, but with the sound of vocalists and traditional rhythmic percussion instruments as the soundtrack. Performers use very complex facial expressions, theatrical eye movements, and hand gestures (mudras) to act out tales from Hindu epics. They undergo nine years of training to master the nine primary emotions and twentyfour handgestures.
The journey with the local bus from Kochi to Munnar isn’t the smoothest one, but it will transport you into a magic landscape of tea plantations and spice gardens. Here time slows down and follows the rhythm of nature. It’s a chance to relax, learn about spice cultivation and Ayurvedic practices and recharge with the energy of the green surroundings. The best way to do this is to rent a moped and drive aimlessly up and down the plantation hills, stop along the way for a cup of warm brewing tea and shop at the spice gardens for delicious spices and Ayurvedic products suited for every need.
What’s a better way to end the India trip than on the coast of the Indian Ocean, with its long sandy beaches and mesmerising orange sunsets.
The area around Kollam is a low-key and off the tourist map stay option. Here you will find no tourist attractions and fewer accommodation options than other better known areas of the region, but a relaxed atmosphere, packs of dogs roaming the beaches and cows grazing undisturbed the green areas around, families flying kites at sunset and fishermen meeting on the beach at dusk.
A completely different coastline experience is offered by the nearby town of Varkala. Here the tourist accommodation options are really plentiful and the overpriced cafes have a strong western vibe; nevertheless Varkala still retains a special charm. This touristy town offers breathtaking beaches framed by spectacular red sandstone cliffs, delicious seafood dinners, vibrant centres dedicated to art, music and yoga, as well as bustling shopping markets.
Separating these two cities are a couple of dozen kilometres of coastline featuring stunning and quiet backwaters. Driving with a moped along the coast will offer extraordinary views of the ocean on one side and of the tranquil backwaters on the other, making the trip feel like a magical experience on its own.
